Originally posted by K5TED
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3 EASY ANTENNAS FOR BEGINNERS
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Lots of great antenna ideas here. The wonderful thing about 1090MHz is the antennas are very small. This allows lots of experimenting with little actual materials needed, unlike HF or even VHF antennas. At 1090, the cables and connectors are more elaborate and costly than the actual antenna materials.
With experimention in mind, here's an antenna design that outperforms the supplied whip, and requires no more than a BNC barrel connector and a few cm of 24g solid copper wire, in this case, a strand from a piece of CAT5...
The Delta Loop. This can be positioned and fed in many different configurations with varying pattern results:
dll.jpg
The orientation and feed methods:
delta-loop.gif
Basic design is using 10cm per side at this frequency. Check for "delta loop calculator" on the web for reference. There are many wire antenna possibilities that can be pressed into testing for 1090, including quads, loops, moxons, etc. .
I found this commercial MaxRad RDS antenna on ebay for the princely sum of $8 USD. It is originally designed for 800MHz, but it was a simple matter to trim the radiator and radials down to 1090 :
gpl.jpg
These were still available as of today, so if you decide to try this antenna and want to trim it down, I took one completely apart and got the dimensions so you don't have to:
1. Radiator is pressed in to the hardline center. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TWIST AND REMOVE IT. Trim it in place. It protrudes 81mm from the center conductor (measured with cover off) Remove the black plastic bootie and trim accordingly from the tip. (13mm for a 68mm adjusted length)
2. Ground Radials are 84mm long and threaded into the aluminum base ring, measured observing the three to 4 threads left exposed. Remove the black plastic bootie and trim accordingly from the tip. (16mm for a 68mm adjusted length)
If you insist on taking it apart to see the guts, after the three radials are unscrewed and removed, the assembly slides out of the cover. It is a bit fiddly to get the threads all lined up when putting it back together. Remember this is aluminum, so be gentle.
The antenna works well, in my estimation, set at about 25' in a window for now, can get up to 178 miles South and about 150 North. It'll be interesting to see how it does mounted in an enclosure outside with a clearer view to the East and West.
I'm a newbie to ADS-B, but a longtime amateur radio hobbyist, so this is a refreshing new facet. Currently using a Noelec 820T2 RTL with an Intel Compute Stick, running Win 10Pro, Dump1090, Virtual Radar Server and feeding FR24. site is T-KSAT6
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Originally posted by EGGD11 View PostJust out of interest do you need to use a DC Blocker?
DC Blocker is essential only for antennas which have a short. DC Blocker is not required for Cantenna and Spider, as there is no short in these antennas. However there is no harm if DC Blocker is installed.
Check continuity between core and shield at the feed point of any antenna by a multimeter. If it shows continuity (buzzer/light), there is a short inside. In this case a DC Blocker is a must. I have once fried my power inserter when I connected a shorted antenna without DC Blocker.
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Originally posted by rodeo View PostHere's my adaptation of the cantenna design; from memory it was a can of pineapple pieces before it became an antenna
Diameter is 80mm, sides are 90mm. Probably not the most ideal dimensions but seems to work OK.
SMA bulkhead connector on top, cable exits via the 16mm plastic conduit supporting it all.
(1) Innovative to use a different type of connector. I used F-barrel connector because of its low cost and universal availability. Almost all types connectors will perform more or less same.
(2) Dia 80mm is ok. I have tried cans of diameter 20mm to 100 mm. Cans with dia less than 66 mm (The 330/350mL Drink Can) give inferior result. Cans from 66 mm to 100 mm dia gave more or less same results.
(3) Height (sides) 90 mm is not ideal. This dimension is not very critical, but does affect performance. The best results are obtained with 69 mm (1/4 wavelength).
NOTE: I could not get a 20 mm dia Can, so I used a 3/4 inch (20 mm) dia copper water pipe with end-cap.
Last edited by abcd567; 2015-10-30, 22:55.
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Cool! Thank you very much! Cheers from Brazil!
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Here's my adaptation of the cantenna design; from memory it was a can of pineapple pieces before it became an antenna
Diameter is 80mm, sides are 90mm. Probably not the most ideal dimensions but seems to work OK.
SMA bulkhead connector on top, cable exits via the 16mm plastic conduit supporting it all.Attached FilesLast edited by rodeo; 2015-10-30, 12:42.
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Originally posted by T-SBAQ3 View PostTwo more questions:
1) what would be desirable cable length in order to avoid signal saturation?
2) looking at the pictures that you posted I can see on the amplifiers labels that Is necessary to feed/inject DC power, but I can't see the power inlet? Is the power supplied by the receiver? I have a DVBT, is it aproprieted?
Thanks a lot, I'm really a beginner on this!
Arrangement with amplifier
Arrangement without amplifier
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Two more questions:
1) what would be desirable cable length in order to avoid signal saturation?
2) looking at the pictures that you posted I can see on the amplifiers labels that Is necessary to feed/inject DC power, but I can't see the power inlet? Is the power supplied by the receiver? I have a DVBT, is it aproprieted?
Thanks a lot, I'm really a beginner on this!
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Thank you!! I'll try one of these models!
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Originally posted by T-SBAQ3 View PostHi, abcd567, could you inform us about the specs of the amplifier that you've mentioned? Is that an standard digital TV amplifier?
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Photos of few example amplifiers are given below for your guidance, but there are many more available in market.
I recommend you search eBay.com and Amazon.com using search key words "Satellite TV Amplifier", and you will get a big list of amplifiers from which to choose.
s-l500.jpg s-l500.jpg s-l500.jpg Amplifier Paladin Tools .jpg 61AbCYQ821L._SX522_.jpgLast edited by abcd567; 2015-10-29, 14:34.
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Hi, abcd567, could you inform us about the specs of the amplifier that you've mentioned? Is that an standard digital TV amplifier?
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Originally posted by Amper View PostYes
In VRS enter IP of FR24 box,port 30034 for raw or 30003 for basestation.
here is example for raw. Replace X.XX in IP with your box IP
[ATTACH=CONFIG]6508[/ATTACH]
I will make a note of the configs you suggested and have a play around with it to see what gives me the best output on the screen.
Many thanks.
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Yes
In VRS enter IP of FR24 box,port 30034 for raw or 30003 for basestation.
here is example for raw. Replace X.XX in IP with your box IP
Screenshot_1.jpg
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