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  • peterhr
    replied
    Maybe, but doing cheap, I was thinking more along the lines of a plastic bacon box (long and narrow) or a inverted cereal box (deep and narrow) with a blue seal and clip on lid. Bring the wires in the bottom - put silicon chalk around them. Would need sun shade (outside box) to stop solar heating and the box itself would need enough surface to dissipate about 5 watts (or bolt heatsinks inside and out using the bolts as heat pipes to transfer the heat from inside to outside)

    I'll see what I can take from the kitchen without to much strife.
    Last edited by peterhr; 2013-08-15, 22:04.

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  • speedbird1960
    replied
    Originally posted by peterhr View Post
    Once I find a waterproof box - the Raspberry PI + Realtek RTL2832U+R820T and go on the mast without needing expensive coax or Active USB repeaters (pictures at the weekend)
    Would something like this be ok: http://www.polycase.com/ml-series

    I know this to do wit boats. but it has some good information about waterproofing: http://www.boat-project.com/electro/nemabox.htm
    Last edited by speedbird1960; 2013-08-15, 21:02.

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  • peterhr
    replied
    POE (Power over Ethernet) on the cheap and is working!

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321166829169 voltage regulator arrived today - it has a micro USB to connect to the power socket on the PI
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160756789659 female adaptor feeds it from
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200841109556 with 10m of ethernet cable between the two parts (on the RJ45 plugs on the adaptors go into the PI and into a homeplug)
    this is then fed from a 12v power supply

    Once I find a waterproof box - the Raspberry PI + Realtek RTL2832U+R820T and go on the mast without needing expensive coax or Active USB repeaters (pictures at the weekend)

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  • peterhr
    replied
    Tried a 10m active USB cable between the PI and the Realtek RTL2832U+R820T - the PI couldn't set the registers in the tuner.

    Tried to do the same with a powered USB hub powering the PI and and between the pi and the Active USB cable - same result.

    Did then doubt the Active USB cable - could run a pen memory stick from a windows PC through it so it seems OK.

    Next thing to try is to put the Raspberry Pi with the tuner stick on the antenna in a sealed box (I'm thinking of one of those clip type lunch boxes like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121006654092 but of appropriate size)

    The box would be put somewhere away from direct sunlight and rain (I'm thinking of velcro straps under the eaves - but could be in a bigger ventilated 'shade box' on a mast. Ethernet and antenna feed would be taken into the box through a hole then liberally sealed with silicone from a chalking gun.

    Run the electronics with power over Ethernet. (A standard Ethernet cable contains four twisted pairs of conductors - one pair is used for signals one way along the wire - another pair for the signals the other way ... that means there are still four conductors spare. Commercially POE is used for office IP phones and things like webcams at 48v ... we won't be so ambitious - we'll try first at 5v since that is what the PI needs.)

    to do the POE we need some bits that are sold for CCTV use

    To carry the power onto and off the cable http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200841109556
    PoE Passive Power Over Ethernet Adapter Injector Kit

    and to feed the PI an adapter (only the female one is needed) - connects to GPIO pins 1 (+ve) and 3 (gnd) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160756789659
    2x DC POWER JACK CONNECTORS MALE & FEMALE ADAPTER F CCTV DVR CAM 5.5mm X 2.1mm
    The male one could be used to feed the power into the cable, but I have a USB -> 5.5mm adapter lead - so don't need it (yet)

    ... that didn't work ... too much volt drop on the Ethernet cable.

    Next thing to try is to poke 12v up the ethernet cable, then regulate it down to 5v by the Raspberry Pi using one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321166829169
    Car Charger DC Converter Module 12V To 5V 3A 15W with Micro USB Cable (input really 8v - 20v)

    Even if we get a 2v drop on the cable we'll still be within the range that the regulator can handle - waiting for parts - watch this space!

    Oh and do put a short (25cm?) USB extension cable between your PI and your tuner ... it's for stress relief for the USB plug on the tuner & socket on the PI if the antenna wire is stiff
    Last edited by peterhr; 2013-08-05, 17:43. Reason: added detail

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  • peterhr
    replied
    For some time I've been using the raspberry pi + RTL dongle,

    The little whip antenna that came with the tuner dongle brought in signals from about 45-50Nm (Nautical miles) ... that's about 90Km

    Initially I made up a simple dipole antenna by separating out 137mm the centre core + insulation and the copper braid from some TV coaxial cable - bending them in opposite directions - based on the idea here http://antirez.com/news/46

    fixing about 20cm beyond the house gutter on the north side of the building with the elements vertical ... probably about 5m from the ground (bear in mind I'm just west of Birmingham, UK) - this gave me cover roughly from The Wash in the East, through Leeds, occasionally Whitehaven, Isle of Man, just short of Dublin, and down to Gloucester (but that's over the other side of the roof) ... that's about 145Nm range where there are no buildings in the way


    Simple dipole antenna


    dump1090 map using simple dipole - the roof of the house blocks signals from the south

    I've also made up a cheap collinear antenna following the instructions at http://www.balarad.net/ - 11 elements no terminating resistor (didn't have one in my odds and ends box) - see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TkUYdCPFXXs

    stuck the antenna to a bamboo pole and held it out a window on the south side of the house - I'll have to sort out proper brackets and a tube to put the antenna in - anyway these are the results with it taped to a slightly damp bamboo bean pole



    I'll could put up some T & K brackets and mount up the co-linear ... it would be nice to mount it on the chimney - but I don't fancy getting up there to do it - though I think I'm more tempted to see if I can work two dongles on one pi (or two pi's) and have two dipoles - one out front and one out back.
    Last edited by peterhr; 2013-06-22, 15:43. Reason: add content

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  • thowe
    replied
    microADSB ist basically another implementation of the miniADSB, a well known PIC based dedicated receiver. It is not a SDR solution like dump1090 is.

    I tried other baud rates too. With no change.

    Thanks for the hint with the powered Hub. I should receive one next week or so and will give feedback here.

    Leave a comment:


  • roofer
    replied
    I am not using adsbox, I am using dump1090 which has been very stable (uptime is 53 days so far) with a RTL2838 USB-connected DVB-T.

    Is your "microADSB" a special 1090MHz receiver, or is it a generic USB DVB-T receiver that you are tuning to 1090MHz?

    If the microADSB is connected via a serial port, how are you setting the device's baudrate, start, stop, parity etcetera?

    In your script, you are setting the baud rate at 3000000, that is three million. Most serial ports will not go that fast.

    If the microADSB is connected via USB maybe you should try connecting it with a powered USB hub, rather than relying on the RPi to provide sufficuent power.

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  • thowe
    replied
    Unstable system

    I have set up a system based on microADSB stick and Raspberry Pi. Basically it is working - but not very stable.

    Description in this post of the "monster thread":
    http://forum.flightradar24.com/threa...ll=1#post33380

    Maybe someone has an idea why adsb is eventually stopping? Any hints are welcomed.

    Leave a comment:


  • Birdie
    replied
    Originally posted by Dauren View Post
    Hi

    Have anybody experience with Radarbox working under linux (on Raspberry)? Using Wine, for example.
    I have experiences using the Radarbox as a paper-weight.

    Leave a comment:


  • Birdie
    replied
    Originally posted by Dauren View Post
    Hi

    Have anybody experience with Radarbox working under linux (on Raspberry)? Using Wine, for example.
    Interesting article here:

    http://edition.cnn.com/2013/04/23/te...SS%3A+World%29

    http://i2.cdn.turner.com/cnn/dam/ass...al-gallery.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • nzradar
    replied
    Originally posted by Dauren View Post
    Have anybody experience with Radarbox working under linux (on Raspberry)? Using Wine, for example.
    No, sorry!

    Leave a comment:


  • Dauren
    replied
    Hi

    Have anybody experience with Radarbox working under linux (on Raspberry)? Using Wine, for example.

    Leave a comment:


  • roofer
    replied
    Please don't throw the RPi out just yet (send it to me, I'd like more!).

    The Rpi is cheap, and very, very good.

    The FR24 all-in-one receiver is no doubt better, but also very much more expensive http://forum.flightradar24.com/threa...-FR24-Receiver than a RPi & dongle.

    I am not sure why you cannot reboot, and have the feeder software automatically restarted, but I am mightily busy with other stuff right now, and not able to offer you much help at the moment..

    Sorry, but I'll be back later, if someone else hasn't sorted your problems by then ....

    Leave a comment:


  • sonicgoose
    replied
    Originally posted by roofer View Post
    1] Yes, you can set what programs you want to start at boot either by making entries in /etc/rc.local or making an /etc/init.d/ script (as usual with linux, there are several ways to achieve the same result)

    2] It is not necessary to send the time. The regular version of dump1090 (which I am using) does not do this. There is a patched version which does, but I do not see the point, unless you have your clock set to within a few nanoseconds of accuracy. As an aside, the above link pretty much tells you all you need to know to get your RPi up & running, as well as an example of an init.d script to make sure it starts working after a reboot.

    A USB GPS dongle will allow you to set the time to about 1 microsecond accuracy. This is probably not sufficient for accurate MLAT calculations. For accuracy to the nanosecond you'll need a GPS receiver with a "one pulse per second" (1PPS) output to connect to one of the GPIO pins on the RPi, and a special kernel, configured to use this data. You'll also have to set up the ntp daemon to use this information. This is not difficult, and a search engine will help you.

    3] Most of us seem to be using the fr24feed_arm-le_225s version. That is the statically linked version. This works well.

    Good luck.
    Hi, folks,

    I've followed the instructions at http://www.satsignal.eu/Radio/dump1090.html and lo and behold it works well. However, once I follow the instructions to have dump1090 start automatically, my rpi will no longer boot. If I unplug my R820T dongle, it will boot. If I run the init.d script manually (with dongle plugged in) it works just fine. This rpi is a fascinating piece of hardware but it's also so incredibly frustrating that I'm ready to chuck it out the window into very heavy traffic. So, as you might imagine, any help will be appreciated.

    Rob

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  • roofer
    replied
    @ speedbird1960:

    Thanks for bringing this up.

    The software that comes with these very cheap RTL SDR dongles (my dongle's lsusb ID is 0bda:2838 Realtek Semiconductor Corp. RTL2838 DVB-T ) is only for windows.

    BUT I discovered to my cost when playing with some of the linux software for my dongle, that if I install software to let me to use the dongle as a TV receiver, it stops me using it with SDR ("Software Defined Radio") and dump1090 etc.

    The solution was to blacklist the dvb-specific modues
    Code:
    dvb_core 
    dvb_usb 
    dvb_usb_rtl28xxu 
    dvb_usb_v2
    so they would no longer be loaded by udev when the stick was plugged in. (I do not watch TV anyway, it was just a "what happens if...?").

    Then everything ADS-B worked as it should, as did all the SDR programs like gqrx.

    So you can either watch TV, or play with SDR and ADSB. You can't do both at the same time.

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