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  • I've used the white high pressure PVC tubing (1mx1m) [x = joiner], I doubt there would be much signal loss from it. I have thought about using a fibre glass rod (to keep the coax vertical) and using heat shrink (keeping the coax water proof).

    Ran the RTL for a few more days (using RTL1090). I do wish there was a VRS alternative for Linux (I find that Mono isn't stable enough to run VRS), I want to move away from running Windows 7 [also replace the hard drive which is aged and stressed]. Again the lighter black is the FR24 range and the darker black is the RTL range.
    Screen Shot 2015-01-29 at 11.16.03 PM.jpg

    bhaal, this is the range I got using the same tubing and similar CoCo design. You can see the different with the CoCo design and a Air Band design (screen shot attachment above)
    Last edited by YSWG; 2015-01-29, 12:43.
    F-YSWG1 and T-YSWG2

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    • with regard to the tubing, put a test piece in a microwave for a minute if it gets hot it have an effect of the signal.
      T-EGLF8

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      • Originally posted by airnrail View Post
        It's a bit off topic but anyway. LAN are going to introduce either B787 or A350 on this route in place of the A340. Dunno about you but I wouldn't like to be in a twin for up to 6.5 hours flying on one fan with not many places to put it down - the far south Pacific is not the North Pacific. The B787-9 is apparently ETOPS rated for this duration. I understand the statistical probability behind ETOPS ratings but still firmly believe that a quad offers a greater margin of safety on routes like this one.
        Airnrail,

        Thanks for the clarification re LAN and good point about the twin engine verses quad. However most airlines are now crossing the Pacific (from BNE, MEL and SYD) such as Qantas (they do still have a few 747's) Virgin and Delta/ United on the overseas airline side etc and preferring the twin jets to do so. Many other airlines cross vast areas of other oceans in the same manner. The reliability of the engines has now reached the stage that ETOPS has been increased and the overseeing authorities are quite happy to do so. I'm with you though, the quad engines just 'feel' safer to some passengers.

        And not off topic, we can discuss on this thread anything relevent to aviation here in Australia I would think. It's for Aussie feeders, not solely about Aussie feeders and I'm always glad to see the guys joining in on here with those topics and discussion.

        Regards,
        Gregg
        Last edited by fungus; 2015-01-29, 20:38.
        YSSY2/T-YSSY4 [SBS-1 Basestation w/- SSE-1090 SJ Mk2 Antenna (Thanks Delcomp) ] [Uniden UBCD996T w/- 16 element Wideband Discone VHF/UHF Antenna, and tuned 108MHz-137MHz Airband Antenna] [Trialing a home-brew 1090MHz collinear antenna]

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        • Originally posted by bhaal View Post
          Ohhh? Hmmm, I read it as though any PVC blocked RF, I read it like that because it wasn't specified on a per-colour basis.. I am presently using the white high pressure PVC as I figured over a ~2mtr length it would be the least likely to flap about when it gets windy, normally that wouldn't matter too much, but on the same mast I have 3 weather cameras and if I get too much movement in the mast then the images get wobbly as well... (each camera mounting bracket and both brackets holding the 1090 coco up have their own guy wires as well)
          Nah, only the darkish grey stuff has the nasty ingredients, I'm using a light greyish colour 20mm tube, cut to 120cm long, the coax elements are just under 90cm, a few cm at the top, the rg6 run goes 25cm inside with a wad of electrical tape about 10cm inside it making sure it doesn't "slide out" and nothing can nest inside, very light and stable, being that length it's still rather rigid, might move about few inches at the top from ground level in 20knt winds, but thats more the masting which is only 2 mtrs 20mm inside another 2 mtrs @ 25mm, rg6 is taped every 8 inches for a few times, and the rg6 is secured to a gutter clip, also acts as a guy wire from the direction strong winds appear, so she aint going anywhere

          So if your mast is strong, and the guy wires you shouldnt need worry bout much movement, if so, try the smaller 20mm stuff from bunnings, just dont forget the end cap (I have the wider base at the "base", so therefore needed the 25mm end cap for the 20mm tube, bit of plumbers tape to tighten it for cap to screw over, another run of electrical tape on outside to help secure it, and all done.)

          Comment


          • Originally posted by YSWG View Post
            I've used the white high pressure PVC tubing (1mx1m) [x = joiner], I doubt there would be much signal loss from it. I have thought about using a fibre glass rod (to keep the coax vertical) and using heat shrink (keeping the coax water proof).
            Keep in mind lightening loves fibreglass

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            • Lightning loves copper as well. It is really down to luck. My main concern has been possibly blocking the signal if the rod is too thick (which it would need to be for the wind loading it would have with the coax).
              F-YSWG1 and T-YSWG2

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              • Originally posted by YSWG View Post
                Lightning loves copper as well. It is really down to luck. My main concern has been possibly blocking the signal if the rod is too thick (which it would need to be for the wind loading it would have with the coax).
                Having some experiences with rojones, you'd have to go completely overboard before it might start to degrade, and youd need a spectrum analyser to notice it, unless you went really overboard and tried to make a boat out of it, dont make it completely rigid, theres a reason most commercial fibreglass ants taper off in thickness towards the top.

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                • Originally posted by YSWG View Post
                  I've used the white high pressure PVC tubing (1mx1m) [x = joiner], I doubt there would be much signal loss from it. I have thought about using a fibre glass rod (to keep the coax vertical) and using heat shrink (keeping the coax water proof).

                  Ran the RTL for a few more days (using RTL1090). I do wish there was a VRS alternative for Linux (I find that Mono isn't stable enough to run VRS), I want to move away from running Windows 7 [also replace the hard drive which is aged and stressed]. Again the lighter black is the FR24 range and the darker black is the RTL range.
                  [ATTACH=CONFIG]5568[/ATTACH]

                  bhaal, this is the range I got using the same tubing and similar CoCo design. You can see the different with the CoCo design and a Air Band design (screen shot attachment above)
                  Nice.. Well in the northerly directions which I have much better LOS I am getting up beyond 300km with my coco which isn't tuned as mentioned earlier.. I've just made a new coco with the coax cut to the correct size based on the VF of the coax, but haven't installed it yet, will do that on Sunday or possibly saturday afternoon if I get time, after I've tested it for a week or so if it gets better results then I will place it up a bit higher on the mast... Then, I shall probably leave it at that... My coco's are 16 elements long...
                  T-YBBN50 - Kallangur, QLD, Australia

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by Ressy View Post
                    Nah, only the darkish grey stuff has the nasty ingredients, I'm using a light greyish colour 20mm tube, cut to 120cm long, the coax elements are just under 90cm, a few cm at the top, the rg6 run goes 25cm inside with a wad of electrical tape about 10cm inside it making sure it doesn't "slide out" and nothing can nest inside, very light and stable, being that length it's still rather rigid, might move about few inches at the top from ground level in 20knt winds, but thats more the masting which is only 2 mtrs 20mm inside another 2 mtrs @ 25mm, rg6 is taped every 8 inches for a few times, and the rg6 is secured to a gutter clip, also acts as a guy wire from the direction strong winds appear, so she aint going anywhere

                    So if your mast is strong, and the guy wires you shouldnt need worry bout much movement, if so, try the smaller 20mm stuff from bunnings, just dont forget the end cap (I have the wider base at the "base", so therefore needed the 25mm end cap for the 20mm tube, bit of plumbers tape to tighten it for cap to screw over, another run of electrical tape on outside to help secure it, and all done.)
                    It should be reasonably stable, there are more than enough turn buckles and high tension wire up there

                    camera_mast.jpg
                    T-YBBN50 - Kallangur, QLD, Australia

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by bhaal View Post
                      It should be reasonably stable, there are more than enough turn buckles and high tension wire up there

                      [ATTACH=CONFIG]5590[/ATTACH]
                      cool
                      though, i'd be bit worried since all guy wires anchor into same area, so you still got a main point of possible total failure (unless the pic doest accurately show all guys.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Ressy View Post
                        cool
                        though, i'd be bit worried since all guy wires anchor into same area, so you still got a main point of possible total failure (unless the pic doest accurately show all guys.
                        Doesn't show all wires, right at the bottom of the pic at the edge of the roof you will see one of the hockey sticks with one of the 3 main guy wires.... All the others that you see have the sole purpose of stopping the mast from twisting due to wind loading against the camera mounts, those guy wires attach to the 4 brackets at the bottom of the mast, those brackets are then tensioned to each other, and then to the bottom horizontal length of wood which stops them from moving on the horizontal plane... The 2 brackets for the 1090 antenna are tensioned down to the same points at the other brackets, and this was done to stop the mast flexing in the middle when the antenna starts whipping about. Thankfully the mast is more solid now than it was previously and there is even less movement in the cameras than before I but the antenna up... And it's all done like this because this is a rental property and I cannot be lifting tiles and inserting mounting brackets etc so I have done the best I could with what I've got on hand... Seems to be working though, but we haven't had a cyclone down here... YET....
                        T-YBBN50 - Kallangur, QLD, Australia

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by bhaal View Post
                          Seems to be working though, but we haven't had a cyclone down here... YET....
                          Yeah, doesn't have to be pretty, just has to do the job!
                          and hrmm last cyclone that came close was a cat2, I think 25 yrs ago, but it was IIRC, only bout 110 knt winds then, the eye passed by the eastern side of Moreton Is, I recall my 2mtr fibreglass antenna at the time doing over 45ー bends, it survived as did the two mobile vhf whips and uhf yagi... my neighbours were more concerned than I was about the masting tho, but then we were talking 12 mtrs above. The only casualty was my 3 HF longwire mounts, which took all of 20 mins to put back - when the weather improved

                          Ahhhh those were the days... I just wish I could get that all back up at this place.. but too much effort for one who now has too little time for radios.
                          Last edited by Ressy; 2015-01-31, 02:25. Reason: typos

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                          • Hello,

                            After a 6 month hibernation... my radarcape T-YBHI2 located at Broken Hill, NSW has awoken. Not sure what caused it to fail in August 2014... however, i have managed to recover it and upload the latest firmware. It is now working as before...hopefully permanetly.

                            Cheers...ƒil
                            Feeders T-YSTW2, T-YSTW3, T-YBCG7, T-YBHI2 ... all Radarcape hardware

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by ナl View Post
                              Hello,

                              After a 6 month hibernation... my radarcape T-YBHI2 located at Broken Hill, NSW has awoken. Not sure what caused it to fail in August 2014... however, i have managed to recover it and upload the latest firmware. It is now working as before...hopefully permanetly.

                              Cheers...ナl
                              Terrific to see you back. It certainly leaves a big hole out in that corner when T-YBHI2 is down. Cheers.

                              Comment


                              • Thankfully the FR24 box is still running, had a very close lightning strike from a storm earlier. Though the storm killed my internet for a short time.
                                F-YSWG1 and T-YSWG2

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